OK, I have been missing in action for a little over two weeks since my last post. This doesn't mean that I had nothing to write about. I was just busy with the end of the quarter (Q3). Actually, because of pressing business, I slipped in my habit of writing and I am just now renewing my commitment. I have several postings which are pending. In addition to my normal haunts (London, Abu Dhabi, Singapore, etc.) I have recently been in some cool places including Beirut, Johannesburg and Istanbul. I plan on writing about each of these places in turn, but today I am going to spend some time writing about Beirut.
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| Beirut - Simply Fabulous! |
Beirut is one of my very favorite places! I have a great time in Beirut and it is one of the world's coolest places to visit. I would love to live in Beirut ... if some country doesn't invade it about every three years. Traditionally, Beirut has been known as the "Paris of the Middle East". I never had as much fun in Paris, however, as I routinely have in Beirut. Personally, I think that Beirut is like the Las Vegas of the Middle East as in, "What happens in Beirut, stays in Beirut!" Much like Vegas, every vice and every virtue is easily found in Beirut. If you want to view churches and mosques or visit beautiful ancient ruins - you can find them all in Beirut. If you want to smoke Cuban cigars, drink vodka and dance with super-hot Lebanese girls until it is light - you can do this as well. Beirut also has the added spice of being right in the middle of the Holy Land which endows Beirut nightlife with just that little more allure of the clandestine.
I'm not going to dwell too much on Lebanese politics, because - as an outsider - I will never be able to fathom even 10% of the intricacies that surround this topic. I will make a few observations, however, that my readers might find enlightening. First, if politics is a sport in most countries, it is a blood sport in Beirut. There are so many factions and these factions are all deadly serious about their manifestos. I once mentioned to a Lebanese friend of mine that each person in Lebanon is his/her own political party ... He commented, "You have it wrong, Shane. Each Lebanese person is his own sovereign country! Just look at the way we drive ... we all think we have diplomatic immunity!" I'll write more about Beirut traffic later, but my friend's observation is deadly accurate. Lebanon is a small place and everyone seems to love to experiment with the limits of their influence over the politics of the country. The influence of the United States may be waning, but the best university in the region is still the American University of Beirut (AUB). Lebanon was a French colony before liberation and the population still speaks some French, but the French probably have more influence in Kansas then they do in Lebanon. The Syrians have substantial influence on a portion of the Shiite population and the Iranians have influence on the remainder of that, mostly rural, population. The Saudis influence the mostly Sunni city dwellers who, in turn, support the Palestinians who traditionally fight for the Sunnis. In fact, during the Civil War, one common saying was, "The Sunnis will fight to the very last Palestinian!" Over all of these different factions is the specter of their southern neighbor, Israel, which dabbles in Lebanese politics the way that the Pope dabbles in religion. Finally, there is also a substantial Christian community. While this might sound like a religious instead of a political topic, trust me, it is definitely a political discussion.
OK, I will try to make it a little simpler ... at least for myself. Lebanon is part of the Holy Land and, as we all know, the Holy Land is some of the most contested real estate in the entire world. Here religion is everything ... including politics. In fact, there has not been a census of religious affiliation since the 1930s because of the sensitivity of the population to this topic. I have many Lebanese friends but I am almost always surprised when I discover their religious affiliations because it is not something that they advertise in any fashion. It is almost taboo to discuss religion in Beirut and everyone seems to have respect for everyone else's religion -- at least on the surface. Politics, however, is another story. Everyone loves to debate politics in Lebanon and I personally think that this takes the place of religious disputes which might turn ugly. In Lebanon, there are three primary political factions ... the Shia which account for about 30% of the population and they are strong amongst the rural villages in Southern Lebanon and also in the Bekaa Valley. The Sunnis are about 25% of the population and they have a strong representation amongst the merchants of Beirut. The third largest group is the Maronite Catholics with 23% of the population which are mostly in North Beirut and the areas up to Byblos. Greek Orthodox Christians have about 12% of the population and most outsiders would think that they would side with their co-religionists, the Maronites, but this is not generally the case. I hope my readers are not too confused by this issue of politics versus religions.
Since we are on the topic, I'll write a little about the religions so that the reader has an appreciation for the situation that seems so volatile to outsiders and confusing to visitors. Keep in mind, as I recite the following religious representations that ALL of these religions worship the same one true God. Also, please keep in mind that I have the utmost respect for all worshippers. So, what is the recipe for a combustible mix of religions? About 60% of the population of Lebanon are Muslims so add the Shia and the Sunni then fold in the Druze, Sufis and Alawites plus a dash of Ismailis and a pinch of Wahhabis. Mix well and set this population aside to arise. Then, take up the fluid nature of Christianity in Lebanon which represents almost 40% of the population... First start with a big portion of Maronites, add in Greek Orthodox but this is not sufficiently "hot". So, add in tiny but equal portions of the Armenian Apostolic Church, the Melkite Greek Catholics, the Syriac Orthodox and the Chaldean Catholics. These should all be stirred together in a pot of biblical proportions and heated by contemporary Middle Eastern politics. Does anyone wonder why Lebanon politics is explosive?!
Most Americans and many Europeans always ask me, "Isn't Beirut a war zone?!" My answer is, "Not unless you count the way the cars dodge each other!" Beirut traffic is ubiquitous, exhilarating and hilarious. On my recent trip, I was in the back seat of a taxi at about 02:30. The car was taking me from the Buddha Bar in Solidere to the Sheraton Four Points in Verdun -- about a ten minute ride. Despite there being significant traffic on the road, the driver insisted on driving about 160 kph (about 100 mph). As he took a sharp turn, I slide across the backseat and hit the door on the other side of the car. The driver didn't slow down but he did solicitously ask me, "Are you OK?" to which I replied, "My friend, I am in a hurry, can you please speed up?!" We both then broke out laughing - but the driver still didn't slowdown.
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| Beirut Traffic - Organized Chaos is still Chaotic |
Despite the traffic, the political disputes and the occasional invasion, Lebanon is wonderful in almost every way! Lebanon has astounding physical beauty. It is part of the Fertile Crescent from which agriculture, society, religion and commerce all sprung. The Bekaa Valley (sometimes called "Biqa") is incredibly fertile and even Beirut is a verdant city of trees and flowers. Lebanon is stunningly situated on the beaches of the Eastern Mediterranean Sea but the Lebanon mountains reach almost down to the coast. The mountains are as high as 3,000 meters (about 10,000 feet) and are snow capped into late Summer each year. There is excellent skiing at the Faraya resort which is about 45 minutes from downtown Beirut even when it is warm enough to sunbath on the beaches by the Sea. When driving up the steep mountainsides the climate changes from sub-tropical palm trees to temperate deciduous trees to alpine conifers and then the trees give way to high-mountain tundra zones above the tree line. These different zones can be passed in less than one hour.
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| Bekaa Valley - Fertile and Verdant |
A few years ago, I took a very interesting - if not all together safe - trip across these mountains. I had a meeting in Damascus but had been refused a visa for Syria (this happens from time to time). So, my Lebanese friends recommended "Franklin Diplomacy" which is a euphemism for bribing my way into Syria. I left a Beirut downtown hotel at 06:00 on a warm sunny morning, took a highway into the lower mountain passes and by 07:30 I was on the top of the Southern passes of the Lebanon Mountains. Despite it being April, there was still lots of snow in drifts around the road. After a stop for coffee, we began a precipitous descent into the Bekaa Valley. The Valley is low as it is a geological remnant of the same features that produce the Dead Sea and even the Great Rift Valley in Western Africa. As the sun arose over the Bekaa Valley I was amazed at how verdant and fertile this area really is. It has an abundance of water and nearly every surface is cultivated with dozens of different crops. Then, as we approached Syria, the geology changed again to rocky desert. These different sceneries played out in less than 85 kilometers (about 50 miles) although the roads were a bit windy so more ground was covered. By the way, in case you are wondering, or are interested in testing out Franklin Diplomacy, an American passport and a $100 bill will magically produce a Syrian visa in about five minutes along with a friendly smile from an AK-47 wielding border guard. I was in Damascus by 09:00 and my meeting started at 09:30. Back to Beirut ...
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| Baalbek View of Roman Ruins |
Beirut has a fantastic ancient history. There are Roman ruins in the center of town that were found when rubble was cleared after the Civil War. These Roman ruins probably extend even further under Bank Street, but they probably won't be excavated. Bank Street was the one area of downtown Beirut that was not touched during the war. All factions in the fighting had their funds in these banks and while war may be hell, money is money. The Banks were untouched even during the fiercest fighting. Just south of Beirut there are fantastic sites at Sidon and Tyre that both show continuous occupation for more than 6,000 years. There are also fantastic ruins at Baalbek. Byblos is quaint and beautifully placed on the coast. I am always amazed at just how much history there is in this relatively small place!
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| Typical Lebanese Women: "Enhanced" |
What really makes Beirut most fabulous, however, is the Lebanese people. They are beautiful, cool, friendly, hospitable and mercantile. The women are amongst the most stunningly attractive in the world and they improve on their natural beauty with one of the highest rates of cosmetic surgery in the world. Lebanese women "dress to impress" all of the time. Each afternoon, women and men congregate for coffee and chatting in various places around downtown. The younger crowd sit outside coffee shops and smoke the shisha. Mothers meet in order to allow their children to play but they also bring their au pairs to chase the little darlings. Older women fashionably stroll the shopping districts. All of these groups are perfectly dressed, perfectly groomed and are wearing a fortune in fashions and jewelry. The display is simply incredible. Men lounge in small groups like lazy lions surveying herds of antelope. The reader might think that this means that everyone is superficial, but this is simply not the case. While there are, undoubtedly, exceptions to the rule, most denizens of Beirut are well educated professionals who just happen to also be incredibly good looking. During the summer it can be deadly hot and humid in Beirut yet I frequently see Lebanese men dressed in tailored Italian suits, complete with French cuffs, walking on the street without breaking a sweat. I once jokingly asked another Lebanese friend of mine, "Have they had surgery to remove their sweat glands?! How can they stand to be in a full suit on a day like today?" My friend told me, "You have to know the trick ... They have ridden in their cars with the air conditioner on full power at the coldest possible setting. Their cars are so cold their teeth are chattering by the time that they park. Then, when they climb out of their cars, the heat seems quite pleasant for at least ten minutes." I'm sure that this practice mixed with cigarettes, cigars and shisha leads to respiratory infections, but they look good while they hack and cough.
The citizens of Beirut also have an incredible love of life. Because many are wealthy, good looking and concerned for their future, they party every single night! Although the Mediterranean cultures eat late and stay up late, the Lebanese take this practice to a whole new level. A meal booked before 21:00 is known in Beirut as "lunch". The average start time for dining at night is probably 23:00, but that is just the start of the evening. There are some really cool party places in Beirut that always seem to be packed. Nothing closes until it is daylight and then there are after parties that go on into the next day. Wednesdays through Saturday nights are the most busy, but a party can still be found on the other nights. Is it any wonder why I love Beirut?
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| Beirut Nightlife - Dancing on Tables is Mandatory |
On this most recent trip, however, I was surprised to see that there is tension building again in the country. There was a large military presence on the roads in the evening and my normally optimistic friends were decidedly downbeat. The coalition government of Prime Minister Hariri (son of the assassinated former Lebanese leader) seems to be having a hard time keeping the government together and there is a whiff of trouble in the air. I hope that there are no problems. Beirut is such a nice place and the Lebanese are a warm and gracious people. I wish them nothing but the best.
Where to Stay in Beirut:
I normally stay at the Sheraton 4-Points in Verdun when I am in Beirut on business. It is a moderately priced, clean and modern hotel with good internet connectivity. When Rosa and I are there for relaxation we normally stay at the Intercontinental Phoenicia Hotel, which was a brilliant hangout right after the War, but the last time we stayed there, the property seemed a bit tired and in need of renovation. Most recently, Rosa and I would stay at the newly opened Four Seasons hotel at the end of Solidere and boasting great views over the harbor. I also spent a great few days in Faraya last February at the Intercontinental ski resort.
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| Four Seasons Beirut - Definitely Cool |
Where to Eat in Beirut:
There are so many fabulous restaurants in Beirut that there are just too many to list. Some of my very favorites, however, include; Julia's in Achrafieh - tasty casual French cuisine with an excellent wine list; Abdel Wahab - excellent Lebanese food right on Monot Street. Mounir Restaurant in Broumana is a favorite because of its fantastically fresh food and its beautiful view of downtown from its perch half way up the mountains. Yabani is great for sushi and other Japanese and has a cool central elevator but remind your female friends in skirts that the area surrounding the underground restaurant is glass so they should be careful where they stand. La Bodeguita Del Medio is new Cuban food and is supposed to be one of the hot places now. Rosa and I recently enjoyed a relaxing dinner with friends at the Mandaloun Grill in the hip Gemmayze area of Beirut. Beirut is packed with excellent restaurants and it is hard to go wrong with any of them since competition is high and all food is exceptionally fresh.
Where to Party:
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| Buddha Bar Beirut = Perennial Party Paradise |
Where to Shop:
I like Aishti for fashion shopping in Solidere. Rosa likes it as well but thinks that it can be over-priced. Around Aishti there are all the large fashion houses; Gucci, Celine and Hermes, to name just a few. When we next return to Beirut, I'll take Rosa to the Beirut Souks, a newly finished shopping area close to Solidere where they have a new Louis Vuitton store, as well as Chloe, Jimmy Choo and even a Paul and Frank shop. My favorite place to shop in Beirut, however, is at the airport at Beirut Duty Free. Beirut Duty Free is the best place in the world to buy Cuban Cigars ... The Duty Free shop sells an incredible volume of tobacco and they have excellent prices.
For those of you who have never visited Beirut, I cannot recommend it enough. It is a crazy, beautiful, wonderful, exotic and thrilling place to visit ... Which is probably why I like it so much; it reminds me so much of Rosa!
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| Beirut Duty Free for Cuban Cigars - Better Priced than Havana! |
Travel Plans:
October 16: At home in Tseri
October 17: At home in Tseri
October 18: Meeting in Nicosia
October 19: Larnaca to Athens and then connect to Cairo
October 20: Cairo ... look out for a post from Cairo
October 21: Cairo to Athens and then connecting to Larnaca
October 22: At home in Tseri
October 23: At home in Tseri
October 24: Back home for overnight before leaving for the Far East
October 25: Larnaca - Dubai
October 26: Dubai - Kuala Lumpur
October 27: Kuala Lumpur - Singapore
October 28: Singapore - Rome
October 29: Rome - Larnaca
I'm double booked the following week, so things are liable to change ...
Rant:
I know that airlines have a problem with profitability, but do they have to take these issues out on the passengers? Seat pitch is becoming ridiculously tight as airlines try to pack more and more seats into the same space. I once told an audience of airline executives, "Less seat pitch means more seat bitch." Now, I normally sit in premium class when traveling long-haul, but last Friday afternoon I flew in Economy on the short flights from Istanbul to Athens and then from Athens to Larnaca. I flew an airline which will remain nameless but there are not many alternatives between Istanbul and Larnaca over Athens so I believe that an interested party will be able to figure out who I flew.
I should have known that the flight would not be great when I boarded and approached my seat. First of all, the overhead bins surrounding my seat were packed tight with bags to the point that my briefcase had to be placed under the seat in front of me. This meant that the already limited leg space was going to be further reduced by the space occupied by my sizable bag. My seat assignment was on the window (I prefer aisle) and there was already a passenger seated in the aisle seat. I politely asked the passenger to let me take my seat. Instead of standing up and letting me into my seat via the narrow 28-inch gap, the adult male simply turned sideways in his seat to allow me to pass. Most of my friends know that I am not a small man and this passenger was giving me maybe six inches of space for accessing my seat. I gave him the, "You have got to be joking" look, but he failed to take the hint, so I simply climbed over him into my seat with a lot of bodily contact and no amount of grumbling on both sides.
The flight from Istanbul to Athens is about one hour and I needed to make some notes before I forgot some important details. Therefore, I skipped the meal, as usual, and opened my laptop during the short flight to enter notes. The large sized man in the seat in front of me had to recline his seat in order to allow his tray table to descend sufficiently in order to accept his meal tray and my laptop screen was nearly crushed by being wedged between his seat back and my tray. I caught the action just in time to keep the laptop from harm. I duly had to recline my seat but I had the courtesy to check the row behind me first.
Sometime during the meal service, the inconsiderate passenger on my aisle asked the flight attendant for a diet soda. The flight attendant poured out the regulation three ounces of brown liquid and began to present the cup to the passenger. There was turbulence when she handed him the cup and he held his arm up in the air to keep the fluid from sloshing around. Then, however, as he lowered his arm to take a drink, turbulence hit again and the "gentleman" accidentally dropped a nearly full cup of diet cola on my laptop keyboard. He was stricken into inaction while I jumped to try to remedy the situation. I immediately demanded towels from the flight attendant who ran to the galley to comply. In the 15-20 seconds before she arrived, however, I tried to turn the machine off and shake out the fluid. Neither she nor I were quick enough.
The laptop now sits forlornly in London being repaired. I thought that the machine may work after it dried but, in the end, it made only made a few desultory beeps and fan noise. I hope that the keyboard is the problem and not the disk drive, but I won't know until the machine is back from repair in London. This machine is less than 60 days old and I really like it.
I don't blame the passenger, the situation was clearly an accident even if he was less than considerate during the boarding process. The stricken look on his face was enough to assure me that the passenger was not vindictively destructive. I don't blame the flight attendant for what was certainly an act of God. I do blame the airline, however, for packing so many seats on to that small aircraft. If the seat pitch had not been so tight, there would have been more room for "spillage" without damage. Travel is inconvenient at the best of times, but even more inconvenient when personal space is lowered to the barest minimum in order to compensate for unreasonably low fares. I won't be traveling that airline anytime soon, but if I do, I certainly won't be using my laptop during a flight!
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| Definitely the Airline's Fault |
Humor Section:
In honor of one of my favorite cities, I offer one of my favorite old jokes:
A recently divorced middle aged Israeli man was on business in New York. Although he hated to be alone in the big city, he convinced himself to visit the bar in his hotel. Sitting close to him at the bar was an attractive 30-something woman. The two began to speak amicably about the weather and what they both did for a living. After a while, the man asked his conversation partner, "Can I buy you a drink?" The smartly dressed woman replied affirmatively. Pretty soon, he bought her another drink and they continued to chat. After some time, the Israeli man said, "My dear, I do not want you to consider me forward but I am here alone and I would like to take you to dinner if you will allow me to do so." The young woman was touched by his formality, but she wanted to set the record straight from the onset so she said, "Of course you may take me to dinner, if you like, but I must tell you that I am a lesbian." The Israeli gentlemen looked concerned briefly and replied, "Oh dear, how are things in Beirut these days?"
Everyone knows I like Lesbians ... err, that's "Lebanese".
Last Blast:
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| "Trust me you will like this old China Cabinet - it is GOOD PRICE!" |
I have been writing this post for several days, off and on, and I really did not know what to write for this last section until a few days ago when Iranian President Mahmoud Achmadinejad visited Lebanon. Now, I'm not going to comment on the politics of this visit; I have mentioned enough above. I do think that the visit was provocative given the current mood in Lebanon and Israel, but I am sure that is what the Iranian leader wanted the visit to be. I am going to comment, however, on the fact that the man needs a good stylist. Achmadinejad is one of the most visible leaders on the world stage yet he looks like a second-hand furniture dealer from the backstreets of Tehran.
Maybe he thinks that he can pull more chicks with a fashionable stubble ...
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| Ahmadinejad Not Pictured Here |
Or maybe he is channeling Ringo Starr ...
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| Ahmadinejad and Ringo ... |
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| Separated at Birth? |
I think, however, that both Ahmadinejad and Ringo are channeling Yasser Arafat. This is enough, if you ask me, to put Ringo on the no-fly list going into any Western country!
Until my next post, which should be soon, have a great time and remember to laugh!
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| Definitely a Family Resemblance! |
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